https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608016775154368861&pid=15.1&P=0
No offense meant, but, I'd throw that $6 towards the better tool. How better? More Universal instead. No matter the bite, this baby does the job hands down.
I've changed my bikes oil twice now, the factory installed filter was a PAIN IN THE ASS to remove. I don't know if they over tighten it, or it just settled or something...
Close. Settled for a surface tension like it's too simple to explain and as simple as it looks.
Even the 2nd change the filter was a bitch to take off.
'But wasn't as bad as the original' means a metal compression or not? 'Note in both cases
I torqued' as opposed to letting the oring squish to the case and now the ring of the metal filter is sort of overbiting the oring's tension alone.
It's because the assembly line crew didn't oil the rubber gasket..
Then, it's not going anywhere now! So look what we have is a dry or oiled oring and do both hold the seal either way? I'd say yes to both. Nothing that wrench can't handle.
a screwdriver thru my filter... this is my 3rd ZX and the other two were the same way!!!
Time to tool-up if you maintain your own bike. I'd buy snap-on because it's not going to wear out the pivot or slip out as fast as the junk waiting on the docks. Add the 6 bucks, the junk you almost bought and buy the best for a few bucks more. Think of it as a one time Lifetime Guarantee you walk right back on that truck and swap it out, the pivot breaks, slips, etc.
I have noticed a couple of whacks on the oil filter with a rubber mallet or piece of wood helps to break the seal and make removal easier.
I wind mine up till I can't turn it anymore. I know that resistance is not banging case to cartridge. I do not throw 13 pounds at it, more like give it a decent grip and when my my hand spins it's torqued close enough for me. I close the oil cap filler by spinning down onto the oring and then snap my fingers off that [bar that is across the] cap. Same principal is that oring squish and that tension.
1. My cap is not squished much is the oring.
2. My cap is not metal to metal on the close.
3. My cap is going to last longer is the seal, I do not cause the compression to collapse, but has memory to spring back.
So the principal says that the compression works that well, it's not the factory, not the torque spec, but that simple design vs memory vs tension vs if someone come up with a better theory, then I am sticking to mine.
Signed,
No One Looks To Tension
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time